Saturday

Day ONE: We meet in Munich...

Day One-Saturday: Munich, Germany

Hello everyone!

Willie and I have embarked on another summer travel vacation through Go-Ahead Tours, this year to Italy...but we are making a few stops first on our own in Germany and Austria.


And the great news is Bill decided to join us this year and we welcomed him with open arms!  He left LA a week early to hike through the Alps in Zermatt, Switzerland. He stayed in a glorious hotel called Monte Cervin, and just happened to be there on his #62nd birthday.  The photos he sent back to us were amazingly beautiful, and made me want to add Switzerland to my "bucket list".


The countryside outside Zermatt is right out of "Heidi" !

 One of the mountains he climbed was Rieffelhorn, which is 9600 feet...a mere pittance for The Mountain Man!


Willie and I in the meantime got our workouts in before the long plane ride to Europe.  Here we are on the trail in beautiful Will Rogers (thanks Donna for the photo!)
Our flight to Munich, Germany was uneventful (the best kind of flight). Since it left at 9:00pm and I had stayed up the night before until the wee hours of the morning trying to get organized, pack, make lists, change lists, try to find where I put the lists.... I was a zombie upon stepping on the airplane.  As soon as take-off occurred I lowered my seat, put on my eye cover, and zzzzz.....  When I woke up 5 hours later somewhere over NYC, Willie informed me that he hadn't slept a wink!  I shifted over to my other side and zzz.... When I woke up a 5 hours later somewhere over Amsterdam, I heard Willie's cheery voice from the flight attendent's cabin.  He had been "entertaining and regaling them with tales" for quite some time I'm told. When the pilot announced our descent, I glanced over at Willie and he was finally zzz...

This visit to Munich we are staying at The Charles, a wonderful hotel right across from a small botanical garden and close by but not too close by all the action in Merianplatz. There is a long and laborious story about how our original hotel was totally a disaster - broken phone, broken AC, room service menus in an unrecognizable language, sketchy surroundings outside across from the train station... - but I will not bore you with the details.  Let's just say our outstanding travel agent and dollie face painter Laura Schy came to the rescue once again, and we are very happy at The Charles, in adjoining rooms with an amazing view!

 When in Munich do what the Munich folks do and go to a Beer Garden!  For dinner, Bill took us to one of the oldest (424 years) and best - Hofbrauhaus. When we first entered, Willie surveyed the scene and proclaimed, "What kinda place IS this? People are smoking, people are drinking, people are singing at the top of their lungs and dancing...I'm not eating here!" to which we replied, "YES, isn't it GREAT?!"  Who was the kid and who were the grownups? hahaha  It didn't take long before Willie was enjoying the festive atmosphere, and the roast chicken and meatloaf helped.

Afterwards we went outside where on a Saturday night it was mayhem and chaos and dancing in the streets.  We HAD to join in!



Off to bed...I hope Willie gets some sleep tonight!








Sunday

Day TWO: Out & About in Munich

Day Two-Sunday:  Munich, Germany

We all woke up frighteningly early and Bill decided we needed to take a one hour walk to clear our minds and shake up our discombobulated bodies, so off we went.  Turns out to have been a splendid idea as the early morning was the best weather of the day.  It was clear and cool - what crazy weather as I figured late June in Europe would be hot, stuffy, and humid.  But no - it's actually a bit chilly and I wore a light sweater as we hit the streets.  Directly outside our hotel is this outdoor sculpture, a 12 meter high big metal circle known as The Ring, by Mauro Staccioli.



   

We walked through the small botanical park "Alter Botanischer Garden" across the street, which had an exhibit opening later today of colorful outdoor sculptures.



Bill was excited as Munchner Dom (Munich Cathedral) was open - it had been closed when we were in Munich with Lulu back in January.  What an amazing cathedral with gorgeous stained glass windows, enhanced by the sun shining through in the early morning light.  The ceiling was way high up and when you said "HELLO" it echoed and echoed and echoed.  Oh to hear the magnificent organ play...THAT would have been amazing.









We meandered over to Marienplatz, "St. Mary's Square or Our Lady's Square", the scene of such crazy festivities just a few hours earlier, and it was full of runners about to embark on a 1/2 marathon.
Willie pointing to the New City Hall, location of the city government.
Built between 1867 - 1908 in the Gothic Revival architecture style, it has
Rathaus-Glockenspiel with 43 bells and 32 life size figures.  Everyday at 11am
(and Noon and 5pm in the summer) it chimes and twirls for 15 minutes! At the very end
a tiny golden bird chirps 3 times, marking the end of the spectacle.



 I of course was noticing a Zara Home store in the vicinity ...why don't WE have a Zara Home store in the U.S. ???  I mean I LOVE TJ Maxx Home Goods but variety is the spice of life!!



On our way back for the breakfast buffet, and then a nap!

Later in the day Bill surprised me by taking Willie out to lunch and booking me a guide to take me around to the nearby art museums.  My guide Tatiana, was originally from Moscow but she has lived in Munich for 25 years, and has 3 masters and even a PhD in art history - lucky me as she was really fun and interesting. I asked her to show me some contemporary art, so our first stop was the Museum Brandhorst.  This building's facade consists of 36,000 ceramic rods in 23 different colors, and is a real eye-catcher. 





The Brandhorst was built and privately funded in 2009 by a wealthy couple, Udo and Anette Brandhorst, who collected thousands of works of art by 20th and 21st century artists. The nucleus of their collection are the more than 170 works by the American artist Cy Twombly





Then on to the Pinakothek der Moderne which is closed until September 2013 due to construction, but there was a fun outdoor pavilion " Schaustelle" that we climbed up.  




Next we visited the recently opened extension of The Lenbachhaus Museum, which showcases artists from the avant-guarde movement known as the expressionist group, Der Blaue Reiter (The Blue Rider).  A pre-curser to abstract art, the prominent artists include Franz Marc, Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, and Gabriele Munter. For these artists, "the colors and lines are free and not bound to represent an object accurately..art does not revolve around a free surface but around the soul and the sub-conscience".  


Franz Marc 1911, "Blue Horse 1" 


Gabriele Munter, 1913, "In the Room"


Wassily Kandinsky



And on the next floor down we entered a room which had all 4 walls painted with the huge scale paintings of NYC artist Sol Lewitt. His paintings are painted not on a canvas, but directly on the wall! 


 Wall Drawing #1074


And last but not least, the final exhibit we visited was a scaffolding structure with leather, leather belts, galvanized chains, and clamps. The artist Monica Bonvicini  titled her work, "Never Again, 2005". The explanation provided for this installation was: 
 Bonvicini works within the thematic field of architecture and physicality. In the last ten years, she has focused increasingly on the tension of constructed space and sexuality and the issues that result between passivity and activity.

To me, it was just a bunch of fun swings to hang out on!





Running around Munich art galleries with an art expert by my side offering commentary,  exchanging thoughts and reflections, and helping me gain an understanding of what the contemporary art world is all about, was a real treat.  Thanks wonderful husband!! xoxoxo







Monday

Day THREE: To the Castles and beyond...

Day Three-Monday: The Bavarian countryside and Oberammergau, Germany

Rain Rain go away!  What is with this rainy and chilly weather? Europe is completely underwater!  We woke up to drizzle which turned into downpours which turned into drizzle...and that's how it went the rest of the day.  But we were certainly not going to let a few raindrops interfere with the exciting day we had planned.  Bill arranged a car to drive us out into the greener-than-tree Bavarian countryside, and our destination was two of King Ludwig's castles: Hohenschwangau Castle - where King Maximilian and Queen Maria raised their two sons, Prince Otto and Prince Ludwig (the soon to be King) - and nearby the more famous Neuschwanstein Castle.





This is a  photo of a typical farmhouse, where the barn is connected directly to the house!


 Notice Neuschwanstein Castle 
(the inspiration for Disneyland's castle in The Magic Kingdom)
 in the background.
 Since Bill and I had already toured Neuschwanstein Castle last January when we were in Germany with Lulu, we decided to tour Hohenschwangau Castle this visit.  Unlike Neuschwanstein, which is known as the Fairy Tale Castle, Hohenschwangau has a distinctive yellow exterior and conveys "the solidity of a medieval castle, a defensive bulwark on a chain of hills above the Alps".  Nobility had settled in the Schwangau area since the 12th century and the castle changed hands many times before it became King Maximilian's and his young bride Maria's home in the early 1800's. The first floor was the Queen's apartments, and the second floor the King's apartments...but there were two "secret" doors that led from one bedroom to the next!  The children occupied the third floor. The interior decor has a Swan theme - they are everywhere in the paintings, the chandeliers, the furniture, the frescoes, and the china.





Because the King did not like the sight of blood, the battle scene portrayed in this painting,
full of wounded and dead warriors, 
shows not one drop of blood.


A "before its time" Lazy Boy Chair !

At the completion of our castle tour, we were indecisive about whether to head on back to Munich due to the rain-rain-rain, or venture forth to the nearby town of Oberammergau, where every ten years the villagers put on the immensely popular Passion Play.  I said to our driver, "What's with this rain? Will it ever stop? I feel bad for the business owners...they must be losing a ton of money during what should be a high revenue time in the summer months."  He looked at me and said, "Well, shit happens."
We decided to head on to Oberammergau.

Feeling a duty to help out the suffering business owners of the many crafts and artisan shops in Oberammergau, we parted ways with Bill and Willie heading into the closest pizza parlor they could find (Willie is not a fan of the German food to say the least - and we'd had plenty of veal the past 3 days) while I wandered off the main drag to see if I could find some hidden treasures.  I came upon the town's cathedral which had a gorgeous graveyard (anyone else love graveyards?) so I decided to do a little look-see before I opened my wallet in the shops across the street.















The town of Oberammergau is full of shops, inns, and restaurants with a full-flung Bavarian look.









Onward to another church, but first I had made the driver stop so I could take a closer look at these street signs:




Last church of the day - this one called simply The Pilgrimage Church of the Scourged Savior. Built between 1745 - 1754, the story goes that a farmer in the area witnessed a statue of Jesus crying, and to pay homage to this, the villagers, farmers, and a few priests in the area, built a cathedral. The inside is done in a very elaborate rococo style, which makes one pause - such an ornate building in such humble surroundings.




 Attitude is everything! Despite rain and cold weather (in late June!) we had a spectacular day!