Saturday

Day NINE: All over Venice

Day NINE-Saturday: All over Venice

Sunshine and clear skies greeted us as we grabbed our complimentary breakfast and hopped
the water taxi for our first tour of the day, The Doges Palace. The Gothic Palace is a "must see" when in Venice but every time I had been here before, the lines were so long it was impossible to get in. Go-Ahead Tours planned well and since we were early and on a pre-arranged tour we walked right in!  For centuries the palace had three roles: the Doge residence (the supreme leader of Venice), the seat of government, and the palace of justice.  When it was first built in the 9th century it served more like a fortress with its four sighting towers and imposing walls.  It burned down more than a few times, and it was restructured in the 14th century and this is when many of the gorgeous frescoes were installed.



I'm glad I'm not married to this guy!





The line in front of the Basilica di San Marco was way too long, and believe it or not it was getting really hot outside, so we took a pass and began wandering inside and out the narrow maze of walkways that wind you through Venice.  We found some wonderful little stores, a pizza parlor, and among other places a large H&M and American Apparel store! We took a pause and had a coffee in the Plaza San Marco.


Kissing on the Rialto Bridge





Then, it was off on a Gondola ride - Bill instructed the gondolier, "Only the best for my wife and son!" and we took the one hour ride all over Venice.  It was so beautiful ...but I will say Willie and I both had a hard time not leaning over and picking up the occasional plastic bottle or trash that drifted by.









This gigantic purple lady is a piece of art installed as a part of the 55th La Biennale art exhibition.
More on this later..


By around 3pm we were all tired, so Bill and Willie caught a water taxi and headed back to our hotel on Lido Island.  I had expressed interest in attending the 55th "La Biennale di Venezia" and the boys were like, "Go Forth!" so off I went on a water taxi in a different direction. I had read about "La Biennale", a major contemporary art exhibition which takes place once every two years (in odd years) in Venice, Italy. It was started in 1895, and today attracts over 370,000 visitors. I was excited to just happen to be in the city when it was on!

There are two principal locations for the 55th Biennale (as well as many pieces of "public art" sprinkled about the city):  One is in Giardini Park and the other is staged nearby in the Arsenale. I had to pick one site since I had limited time, so I chose to go to Giardini Park.

In Giardini Park there is a permanent large exhibition hall - The Central Pavillion - which houses a themed exhibition designed by a specific curator - the 55th Biennale's curator is Massimiliano Gioni. He designed the exhibition and selected the pieces of art  to display under the theme of: What is the artist's world? .

OK it's a confusing, as contemporary art usually is, but I'm quoting him when he says,  "This is an exhibition about knowledge - and more specifically about the desire to see and know everything, and the point at which this impulse becomes defined by obsession and paranoia. It blurs the line between professional artists and amateurs, insiders and outsiders. It illustrates the transformative power of the imagination and alternative worlds. It asks questions such as "What is the artist's world" ... dream and reality, obsessions, aspirations, motive.  

OK that's the best you are going to get from me!

In addition to The Central Pavilion,  Giardini Park also houses 29 permanent much smaller  pavilions spread around the park.  Each of these buildings contain some form of art selected for the Biennale by a curator from an individual country - following the same overall theme.  So, there are 29 countries represented and now, since there are more countries who want to participate but don't have a pavilion built yet,  the newer entries are exhibited in other venues around the city.  Recent countries who have decided to be a part of "La Biennale" are China (2005), Africa and Mexico (2007) and United Arab Emirates (2009), and India (2011).

I was lucky enough to happen to show up when an English language tour was beginning, so I tagged along as the tour guide tried to explain what some of the art in The Central Pavilion was all about.
I say "tried",  as trying to talk about contemporary art can really difficult...a lot of time the piece makes no sense, and you think "What makes THIS  art?" An example of this was
the piece (although it's not a piece) by the British-German artist Tino Sehgal. He was born in 1976 and
he calls his works "constructed situations".  I read his biography and his work has been purchased in all the major museums, and in fact he was just awarded the "Golden Lion" for the best artist in the whole show...but what I saw were 2 people making weird sounds in the middle of the room, moving around on the floor like they were in a trance.  I will say, they attracted quite a crowd of people observing their contortions and occasional gutteral sounds.  Here is what Tino Sehgal is all about:


What all of Sehgal's works have in common is that they reside only in the space and time they occupy, and in the memory of the work and its reception. The artist himself describes his works as 'constructed situations', whose materials are the human voice, language, movement, and interaction, without the production of physical objects. His pieces are choreographies that are regularly staged in museums or galleries, and continuously executed by trained individual — Sehgal refers to them as “interpreters” — for the entire duration of a show. The reaction or even participation of the spectator gives the possibility for the work to actually happen. The artwork is the constructed situation which arises between the audience and the interpreters of the piece. Afterwards, the work of art will exist only in the world of experience and memory of those who directly experienced it. Sehgal's work can be neither photographed nor illustrated; no documentation or reproduction is allowed, in order to focus all the attention on the physical evidence. For his choreographies, Sehgal regularly auditions men and women of all ages, including actors, dancers, professional singers, and ordinary people with different backgrounds. The people who are selected to interpret his work are then camouflaged among the guards and the visitors.


I bought the gigantic book that explains all the different art installations in case anyone is interested in taking a look at it when I get home.  At this point I'll just share some of the art I found interesting:

French Pavillion

Venezuela Pavillion
United States Pavillion

Republic of Serbia Pavillion




Tomorrow is supposed to be another beautiful day - stay tuned! xoxo


Sunday

Day TEN: The islands of Torcello and Burano


Day TEN-Sunday:  The islands of Torcello and Burano

Yahooooo another beautiful day!  Warm but a nice breeze and we were off!

We boarded a boat to head through the lagoon to the island of Torcello, where the story of Venice began.  It was here that mainlanders sought a safe haven from invading barbarians.  There was a beautiful Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, whose famous mosaics depict The Last Judgement.  Next door a church service was in process, and - no surprise - Bill opted to attend it while I was taking photos in the Basilica next door.  Willie was in search of frozen lemonade.



These children were playing in the huge baptismal in front of the church! 


Then it was off to the tiny fishing island of Burano - NOT to be confused with the (tourist trap) glass blowing island of Murano.  What a gem of a place, and I can't believe in the 4 times I've traveled to Venice in my 58 years, this is the first time I'd heard of this place much less gone there - surely Go Ahead Tours is the best!

Burano is a village full cafes and tiny shops filled with art, jewelry, and their speciality - lace.  I was surrounded with color - Amazing! And with the sun shining brightly, all I had to do is hold my camera up, click, and I had an award winning photo...see if you agree!





Sunday is laundry day!
The island of Burano is known for it's intricate lace
None of the homes have doors... the entries just have these curtains to let in the breeze

I may have bought a few of these....
This photo is for Lulu xoxoox

We never wanted to leave, but unless we wanted to swim back we had to meet up at the boat.  We headed back to Lido and Bill scoured around the island for a fitness center, and found one in the old world beautiful Excelsior Hotel - a grand dame of a hotel on the ocean side of Lido.  Willie had been asking us "Where's the beach?" and Bill found it!  Willie grabbed his suit and we headed off to the huge public beach where he went for a swim.  Afterwards we passed on our reservations at a fancy restaurant and opted for the beach burgers that were being grilled outside under the setting sun. Willie headed back to the hotel in search of chocolate gelato (not hard to find!) and Bill and I walked along the promenade, checking out all the beach cabana clubs.  We agreed it had been a perfect day!






Monday

Day ELEVEN: Beautiful Florence



Day Eleven-Monday: Beautiful Florence

Up early and in the bus, for a 4 hour bus ride from Lido Island to the magnificient city of Florence.
We traveled through the Apennines mountains and found ourselves under the Tuscan sun in Florence in time for lunch.  Florence - the timeless city, birthplace of the Italian language, the Renaissance, and opera.  So much to see! I had been to Florence in my 20's (not THAT long ago!!), but Bill in all his travels had not, so he was especially excited to see what this city he had heard so much about was all about!  While I love American folk art, outsider art, and crazy contemporary art, Bill's artistic taste has always been for the classic approach, characterized by by Michelangelo, Leonardo diVinci, Sandro Botticelli and other Florentine masters. To say the least - Florence was heaven on earth for Bill Simon! Willie on the other hand - his tastes run toward fresh orange juice (so far Venice has been the best but still does not hold a candle to Istanbul), lemonade slush (Florence got a B+) and pizza (the jury is still out - more exploration is needed).

We put on our most comfortable shoes, as today was a walking day.  Our tour guide led us along the narrow streets where bicycles and motor scooters and the occasional car (though not many) whizzed by until we turned a corner and WOWOWOW there it was - the Santa Maria del Fiore (Saint Mary of the Flower) aka The Duomo. The Duomo sits in a complex of buildings known as The Piazza del Duomo which includes the Duomo, the Campanile (the bell tower), and the Bapistery. These 3 buildings are now a UNESCO Heritage Site.

Work on the Cathedral began in 1296 in the Gothic style designed by Arnolfo di Cambio.  It was completed structurally in 1436 with the completion of the enormous dome engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi.  My photos don't do this extraordinary building justice, as I need a huge wide angel lense to capture it all in one piece. The exterior of the Duomo is made of marble panels in various shades of green and pink, bordered by white.  This cathedral is a case of the outside being much more striking than the inside.  Compared to all the ornate churchs we had been visiting on this vacation, the inside of The Duomo was dark and sober...but the outside WOWOWOWOWOW.


Bill got up very early the next morning and went for a walk
around the city - he said the Piazza was so quiet and peaceful in
the early hours...



Next to the Duomo is the Campanile (bell tower), designed by Giotto di Bondone.  The first stone was laid in 1334 when Giotto was 67 years old.  It stands tall at 278 feet and is made of white, green, and red marble - all brought in from towns surrounding Florence. You can walk up to the top of the tower for amazing views ... 414 steps on a winding very narrow staircase with only a few resting landings in-between.  


We would be passing by the Duomo many times during our stay in Florence as it seems all roads lead to the Duomo! We wandered over to the next amazing site -  the church of Santa Croce where the tombs of Galileo and Michelangelo as well as the Dante Memorial are displayed.  Then the Palazzo Vecchio, Florence's Town Hall.  This massive Romanesque fortress-palace is located in the Piazza delll Signoria.  From 1504 - 1873,  Michelangelo's famous statue David stood at the entrance of the Town Hall, but was moved to the Accademic Gallery and in 1910 a replica was erected. 

Then it was a visit to a leather making shop where we were instructed how to recognize a real leather purse or bag, and oh by the way there is a retail store next door that maybe you'd be interested in making a few purchases of an authentic leather purse, belt, box, suitcase, briefcase, or wallet?  I was like "what a waste of time" but as I wandered through the store I saw a few things, and well they were the "real thing" and maybe it would be a nice reminder of our visit....

Having worked up an appetite, we left to find the restaurant where we would be having a group dinner. By the way, our group of Go Ahead Tour travelers are so nice and so much fun!  A family from La Canada, a young couple from Torrance, an almost engaged couple from Atlanta (he is the Atlanta Falcons quarterback coach), a retired couple from Virginia, grandparents and 2 grandkids from Florida, and of course that good looking delightful family from Pacific Palisades, California !!!  In case you forgot what they looked like, here is a reminder:




On the way we heard quite a commotion.  Well, let's say I did as I kept saying to Willie "Do you see all the police?  Oh there is another police van. Oh there are more police... " He would reply (if he replied at all) "Are we going the right way to the restaurant?" Then we saw a huge crowd of protestors coming our way in a wave, chanting and carrying large banners saying STOP THE ABUSE.  Luckily it was peaceful but there were sure a lot of people coming straight at us, so I had to find out what's up?  Turns out a year or so ago a few policemen made an arrest of a some persons for non-violents crimes (drugs), but during the arrest the police turned brutal and one of the victims died as a result of the beating.  The police were charged with abuse and the case went to trial and a decision was just reached of Not Guilty.  Many people today were marching in protest of that decision.




Finally we found the restaurant where we had way too much to eat, and then we lugged ourselves back to the hotel vowing to stop eating so much lasagna, pasta, pizza, and the almighty gelato...but oh "Mama Mia" it tastes so good!  

Until tomorrow...xoox